Royal Bike Parts clutch kit

thony

thony

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Developer
477 Owner
So, currently went in and out clutch assembly a total of 4 times without success... Where is the failure you may ask? Well, bike is in neutral, pull the clutch lever in to switch to 1st gear, all good up to here, shaft is blocked so bike does not move. Pull clutch lever in again and it just won't disengage anything, bike does not move, like an indian cow. Go back to neutral and and it spins. My routes are not downhill most times.

Any idea on what could be going on? I assembled everything according to manual and videos.

Purchased everything, discs, springs and bolts. And a Brisk spark plug that is not helping the clutch thing at all :D

www.royalbikeparts.com

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You are talking this extra special german clutch assy? or the OEM clutch? I remember vaguely there was a discussion about it earlier here somewhere and @Dool, if memory serves, wasn't too happy with it either.

here is our own how-to video about changing clutch plates - an easy job it seems:

 
It does seem like an easy job indeed. Watched that video a few times too.

Yes I brought the whole German assembly but no idea, seems like the clutch realease pin is not doing its job, for some reason when pulling clutch lever in it does not free the mechanism. In any gear.

But all good when in neutral.

I believe clutch disc bolts should not be tightened to the highest compression of the springs.
 
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I post the results of the fb discussion here in case this issue is not limited to thony:

Tony asked:

Hello all! I purchased the full clutch kit (discs, springs and bolts) a few months ago from Royal Bike Parts and was wondering if you can provide some help. After some food and thought I came to figure out the bolts that hold the round plate over the springs should not be tightened to the spring compression max but to a spec that allows the release pin to actuate on the bearing. Am I right? None of the videos and info I have come across mention this.
My main problem now is that when fully assembled, my clutch lever does nothing, from neutral I switch to 1st gear but when pulling the lever again bike does not move so, my pin is not working I guess.
Has this been discussed before?
Click to expand...

Heiko replied:


Usually the change of clutch is very straightforward, just keeping in mind that the upper friction plate does not align with the other frictionplates ).
Do you get pressure on the lever?
In your picture the release bearing and the adaptor is missing. If you removed the basket - did you again install the thick washer behind it?
If you move the lever on the housing - does the activating pin move? ( Don't move the lever too far - the pin will slip inwards )
Did you thoroughly oil the friction plates?
Is No2 vs No8 correctly aligned?
It is important that the screws are fully tightened as with the release mechanism you release them pressing inwards.
If everything is installed propery you might still have a lot of drag even if you pull the clutch lever. I doubt that with pushing cold you can judge that the clutch disengages properly. The clutch is new, cold, no oil.
I developed it, tested it and it is a great improvement for more than 15000km now.

May be an image of blueprint and text that says 02 00 Clutch A2 On
Click to expand...


thony:

Yes, the upper friction plate rests on the offset groove. There is pressure on the lever and also snappy return when I let go. In my pic the bearing cup and bearing are missing but I have them, they sit in the center of the clutch holder plate. The activating pin moves, the pin rotates inside the cover and pushes the pin, the pin returns on its own. Both #2 and #8 are aligned I guess but, is there a mark or something they need to align to?
I will fire the bike for a test.
Click to expand...

finaly Heiko:

Check also that the springs sit perfectly. Can be achieved with a screwdriver.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks @sam2019, yes, went through all the possible options where I could have messed it up but could not find anything wrong, pretty simple mechanism. I played a lot with cable adjustment until it coming from 1st to neutral to 2nd and back switch more smoothly. First time changing a clutch so a few observations:

1. The pin that comes from the actuator that pushes against the bearing and the cup is a millimetrical calculation that is affected by how you perceive the tension of the clutch cable at the actuator lever, I would think it needs to show some slack but it needs tension, more than what you would expect...
2. How much tension is needed to allow the pin to effectively dissengage the clutch, well, this would be determined by how smooth your gear changing is, the line between an effective engaging and disengaging seems to be pretty thin, more than what you would expect (plus an apparent breaki in period for this particular clutch kit - this comes straight from Heiko)
3. I could enter a clutch swap speed contest with surprising results
4. H-T deity @Dool never commented on my post
 
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How many gaskets and Oil fills ?
I had difficulty when installing the HMC kit, firstly it would not disengage then I reassembled it with the throw out lever in the wrong position.
So when it worked 95% I could live with that, it has never slipped, is not Grabby but drags enough when cold to make finding Neutral a challenge.
Probably still wearing in! I don't expect it give any problems.
Next time I will be able to use my Bike Bench which puts a better perspective on it. ;)
 
I just did one oil fill because the rest of times worked with bike fallen on left side. Gasket seemed fine so I reused it.

Will ask Santa for a bench.
 
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