Clutch & Side-stand Sensor Elimination

RCruiser

RCruiser

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477 Owner
I thought to start a dedicated Thread for this subject as I was inspired by the idea, to accomplish these Sensor Deletes, but this info was in completed unrelated Thread. Knowing that others might want to do this to, I'm volunteering to be the knucklehead and to ask some dumb (lazy in my case) questions regarding the procedures.

To Anyone that has related Pictures or Descriptions of these 2 Procedures, Please post them here for Reference-Thank you!

1) Where is the Clutch Sensor Plug Located? The plug that needs altering? The plug below:

2) Side-stand Switch is Clearly Visible, but how to eliminate? Just connect both wires together, like the Clutch Plug?
 

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I should think that the side stand switch could shorted,
best way to test would be to physically remove it and see what happens, presumably if the connection is wrong then it will not start.
 
RCruiser said:
I thought to start a dedicated Thread for this subject as I was inspired by the idea, to accomplish these Sensor Deletes, but this info was in completed unrelated Thread. Knowing that others might want to do this to, I'm volunteering to be the knucklehead and to ask some dumb (lazy in my case) questions regarding the procedures.

To Anyone that has related Pictures or Descriptions of these 2 Procedures, Please post them here for Reference-Thank you!

1) Where is the Clutch Sensor Plug Located? The plug that needs altering? The plug below:

2) Side-stand Switch is Clearly Visible, but how to eliminate? Just connect both wires together, like the Clutch Plug?
Click to expand...
Plug is righe below the clutch lever.

The side stand I believe is a "normally closed" switch, that opens when you put the side stand, hence I guess if you remove it the bike shouldn't start...
 
Thanks for the help guys.

I did the deed(s). The Side-Stand Switch was removed and the wires traced back to a Plug in the Bundle near the Throttle Body. I snipped the wires an inch from the plug so that I could completely remove the Switch. The snipping was necessary as the loom feeds through an eye near the swingarm that isn't big enough to allow the plug or switch to feed through it. Then I put a few layers of Heat Shrink on the snipped plug wires and plugged it back in so that water and shorting won't be an issue.
Next up was the Clutch Switch. This one needs to be Grounded, or the 2 wires connected at any rate (don't know if it's 'technically grounded'). Once the Switch itself is cut off, I connected the 2 wires and sealed them by Heat Shrinking, then ran the wire back behind the headlamp and towards the frame. Easy peasey and the bike starts now without the clutch pull, which I greatly favor.

I would've gotten around to both of these mods eventually but what put me over the edge was 'the new fella's' testimony that his Starting has improved, presumably bc of the corroded switch and/or wiring. Of late my bike has been starting as if I didn't have a Decompressor at work, but I do, and I've got a fairly new battery too. Also when I returned from a 10 trip last week my battery had drained down significantly which it had never done before when it was left unattended for periods.

Although I didn't get much of a chance to test things out I'm hoping that I've helped my electrical system out with these modifications.
Bob
 
(I have edited it for easier consumption - sam)
Scottfree has posted something that may be of interest to anyone having thoughts about the Clutch switch and starting problem.
I have stolen 2 screen shots, might be worth a read
All this interlock talk has me thinking and that is dangerous. Recently, I've noticed that my 2019 will only start with the clutch pulled. Doesn't matter if I'm in gear or neutral and if the kickstand is up or down. Shouldn't it start in neutral with the clutch out?
Click to expand...
Yes... by which I mean, yes, it's supposed to crank with the stand down if you have either put the bike in neutral or pulled in the clutch (or both). Of course the devil is in the details. On the Himalayan (and many bikes), the interlock is on the ground side of the starter relay primary. When you push the button, battery voltage goes to one side of the coil. Then current has to find its way through the interlocks to ground. This energizes the coil and sends Serious Power to the starter motor.
Here's where it gets tricky. According to the wiring diagram, the neutral switch grounds through the clutch switch, or the wires at the clutch switch. See this snip of the wiring diagram:
 

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The Thread is one of the few of interest that I would recommend, we all have the same shitty electrical system ;)
 
Dool said:
The Thread is one of the few of interest that I would recommend, we all have the same shitty electrical system ;)
Click to expand...
Which thread is that? What platform?
 
adventure rider ?
just recent
www.advrider.com

Royal Enfield Himalayan Owners Thread

Has anyone figured out a way to hang hard panniers without needing a rack? I love my Mosko R80s for trips, but around town errands would be easier...
www.advrider.com www.advrider.com

to be precise :giggle:
 
Next time Ill try and cut out the text and the pics, but I could not in all honesty Rewrite it unless I had digested and understood it all :ROFLMAO: so I thought it better straight from the Horse's mouth.
 
Yesterday I've started to dismantle the bike for the "serious overhaul" project I had in mind for some time, and took my time to evaluate the Achille's heel of the starter circuit.

I went through all the cables and find what I think is the true problem. The primary coil, the one responsible to send some "serious" power from the battery to the starter, is sealed, so no possibility to change wires there, unless you buy a separated unit altogether.
However the "red cables" there are quite substantial, so I'd not be too worry about those. They could be better, but they should do the job properly.
The real weak link is the "return" cable for the power that goes from the starter motor directly back to the battery. That cable is flimsy (and long).

I believe by replacing that single cable the situation should improve quite substantially, and it's an easy fix, it's a point to point cable from the started to battery negative.
If you look right at the starter on the connection side, on the right side of the bike, the wire to be replaced is the one connected to the lower left fixing bolt. You can't miss it, it's the slimmer of the two. It goes around the ABS unit and straight up to the battery. Replace that with some thick gauge wire (AWG 10 or AWG 8) and you're done.
All the other negative wires (neutral sensor, clutch, side stand) they all participate in activating the coil. Not much power to go through these so I wouldn't worry too much about them.
 
Sasa said:
Yesterday I've started to dismantle the bike for the "serious overhaul" project I had in mind for some time, and took my time to evaluate the Achille's heel of the starter circuit.

I went through all the cables and find what I think is the true problem. The primary coil, the one responsible to send some "serious" power from the battery to the starter, is sealed, so no possibility to change wires there, unless you buy a separated unit altogether.
However the "red cables" there are quite substantial, so I'd not be too worry about those. They could be better, but they should do the job properly.
The real weak link is the "return" cable for the power that goes from the starter motor directly back to the battery. That cable is flimsy (and long).

I believe by replacing that single cable the situation should improve quite substantially, and it's an easy fix, it's a point to point cable from the started to battery negative.
If you look right at the starter on the connection side, on the right side of the bike, the wire to be replaced is the one connected to the lower left fixing bolt. You can't miss it, it's the slimmer of the two. It goes around the ABS unit and straight up to the battery. Replace that with some thick gauge wire (AWG 10 or AWG 8) and you're done.
All the other negative wires (neutral sensor, clutch, side stand) they all participate in activating the coil. Not much power to go through these so I wouldn't worry too much about them.
Click to expand...
The Battery Cables on the Himalayan look adequate enough until you realize how much is insulation.
Quite obviously it does work for most people most of the time, but depending on the level of improvement required.
Starter Relays are quite cheap and do require more connections than the sealed unit employed but give the ability to use thicker cable.
A LifePo4 battery has a higher voltage that helps ( but only for a short time!) .
Initially I would cut the red one as short as possible and get a bigger black one :)
 
Dool said:
The Battery Cables on the Himalayan look adequate enough until you realize how much is insulation.
Quite obviously it does work for most people most of the time, but depending on the level of improvement required.
Starter Relays are quite cheap and do require more connections than the sealed unit employed but give the ability to use thicker cable.
A LifePo4 battery has a higher voltage that helps ( but only for a short time!) .
Initially I would cut the red one as short as possible and get a bigger black one :)
Click to expand...
I've seen a starter relay is about 10€ (for an XT600, should be ok for the Hima) and I'm almost about to pull the amazon trigger!

Your observation is correct about the wire, the red one has a thicker than usual insulation so I might consider taking new unit and rewire the system!
Surely insulation is cheaper than copper...
 
@Dool I pulled the trigger and now a new solenoid is on the way...

@RCruiser I'll try to document the mod extensively to provide some reference! :)
 
Installing this will be a good opportunity to also install a switch under the seat that overrides all of the safety's and just makes the relay work;).
 
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