Lazy cold start gone

Sasa, I entered the values into the MAP as suggested, but the bike still needs hand holding the throttle. I attempted to avoid this for 2 consecutive mornings without any direct success in the engine idling by itself.

After 2 days/try's, I then attempted to play with the Timing via ETC COMP IGN, thinking that it may yield some effect. In doing this I 'raised' the Timing in the lowest 3 Rows & 3 Column's by .4 (So -3.8>-3.4) Still, no love with this either. Neither of these adjustments harmed the way that the bike runs, but neither helped the Cold Starting.

My observation is that the bike doesn't Kick, or Ignite, without just the slightest throttle input. What I'm trying to convey is that it 'feels' like right there at the 1st turnover of the ignition where it 'should' pop, is where, possibly, the problem lies; right at say 14c 2nd column. More Fuel? More Advance?? I dunno. (I'm struggling to articulate what I'm sensing; sorry...).
Bob
 
Does it need the smallest amount of throttle when hitting the starter?
 
Ya Peter, that's right. On the 1st try it actually usually starts, but only stays running for a couple of seconds; on following attempts it needs a nudge of throttle and the throttle input must remain until sufficiently warm enough to hold it's own idle.
 
Haha, since I installed it I've never used it!? The reason for this is that it's a pain to employ/deploy; I wanna just take it off, unless I can think of a better way to use it.
 
My 500 has a fancy system of cold start, the hose that let's in the extra air needs to be closed on first attempt after it fires I can open it for high idle until it wsrms.
Perhaps next cold start you do similar, hit the button, smallest bit of throttle and when it fires pull the Bi Starter and release the Throttle.
 
That'd be great, but I don't have a bi-starter (per say), due to the fact that I've got the Meteor Handlebar...stuff. You know, Switchgears. Meteor's didn't come with the bi-starter so I jury-rigged one onto the TB, but it's a bitch to operate, so I haven't...
 
RCruiser said:
That'd be great, but I don't have a bi-starter (per say), due to the fact that I've got the Meteor Handlebar...stuff. You know, Switchgears. Meteor's didn't come with the bi-starter so I jury-rigged one onto the TB, but it's a bitch to operate, so I haven't...
Click to expand...
Im suggesting the Meteor Switchgear aint that good after all 🙃 these do need a cold start system, they have such a basic TB it needs all the help it can get.
Try slipping the cable up between the Seat and Tank and pull it from there. Full pull its a stupid unit!.

Cut the cable and throw away the Outer then tie a loose knot it will look like a Snare then, might keep people off the bike :ROFLMAO:
 
@RCruiser try increase the base value in the map in the idle row (first four cells from the left) to 2.8. I remember by heart it was 2.7 or 2.75!
In the ECT Comp INJ map use the value that Thony posted, leave the ECT Comp IGN alone.
you might even up the base value till 2.85, but try 2.8 first.
 
@Sasa there weren't any changes to the cut off issue. Tested both maps and still cuts off between 2000 and 2200 rmp. Noticed a certain smothering of in the overall riding though. Could just have been me. Do you think it has to do with spark timing? This happens at 24‐26 kmh only of the road allows free wheel rolling. But if i try to provoke it even with free rolling below 24 or the 2000 mark, it holds idle without any problems.
 
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