I was under the impression the throttle learn values remain the same from last learning cycle if not "re-learned" - or are they reset to some arbitrary value each time one loads a map?But surely the Throttle Learn would sort thisif it was done!
The "Red ECU" thread
- Thread starter sam2019
- Start date
I did
anyway, bike is in the shop now (although nobody there to work on it today) - tomorrow we do the air injection delete as of Dools instructions.
Does that emission control canister under the bashplate have any influence on the cold start? If so we will disconnect that too.
While we are at it we also change the head gasket as this one seems to be a tiny bit leaky, at least it looks that way.
Bike has been paid so I am under pressure to get it out in good running condition asap.
Does that emission control canister under the bashplate have any influence on the cold start? If so we will disconnect that too.
While we are at it we also change the head gasket as this one seems to be a tiny bit leaky, at least it looks that way.
Bike has been paid so I am under pressure to get it out in good running condition asap.
Every time you load the map you have to change TPS values, otherwise you're going to be using those from my bike.
Please refer to this post and follow each and every step with religious rigor...
Do the air injection delete and get rid of that f**king canister, it causes more harm than good (cut offs, poor idle, etc.)
Once you have read the abovementioned forum, load the V6 special edition I'm about to send to you (so we start fresh) following each and every step in the procedure.
Warm up the bike and verify warm idle is 1250 +/-50 RPM, otherwise adjust idle screw.
Modify cold idle (if needed) acting on ECT comp INJ as described in my other thread.
Also... IF you try to change the Idle on the TB itself while also messing about with the software, This WILL Cause the TPS Values the Change. Ask me how I know!...
Bottom line is that one Must follow All of the Instructions to the letter; ain't no shortcut's to this. I'll be doing my 2nd Morning Start tomorrow after a very nice bump up in start-ability from my 1st round today.
(Un-related: I installed the YSS Fork Kit today. It got dark so I didn't get it all buttoned up but I'm excited to test it on the way to work in the morning. FYI the earlier Shock & Fork Mod's from Zedling Suspension, an outfit here in India, proved... not so good. So I went YSS front & rear. Live & Learn...)
B
Bottom line is that one Must follow All of the Instructions to the letter; ain't no shortcut's to this. I'll be doing my 2nd Morning Start tomorrow after a very nice bump up in start-ability from my 1st round today.
(Un-related: I installed the YSS Fork Kit today. It got dark so I didn't get it all buttoned up but I'm excited to test it on the way to work in the morning. FYI the earlier Shock & Fork Mod's from Zedling Suspension, an outfit here in India, proved... not so good. So I went YSS front & rear. Live & Learn...)
B
what are these for in the Hitch kit?
Attachments
so you did not change anything in the harness? getting a resistor on short notice could be a problem and there is none in the Hitch kit afaics.
@sam2019 I really don't know what you did BUT that ain't the map I sent you.
Just for comparison here is a screenshot from your video
And this is the Map3, but from the file I sent you.
Compare the numbers, they are not the same.
Moreover you changed IDLE base values on map2 but not map3...
possible mixup. I made a map file based on your earlier suggestions (only map2 was changed) - then I ALSO saved the one you sent me - but both where on the desktop of my notebook that I use for ECU programming. So I guess I mixed them up bc both have "sam" in the name.
will put the correct one on tomorrow before we start up the engine first time.
fuckin Murphy at work again!!
will put the correct one on tomorrow before we start up the engine first time.
fuckin Murphy at work again!!
UPDATE:
I have taken the red box off the shop for various reasons.
1) @Sasa is not as present here as he was previously and except for him and maybe @Dool to an extend there are no experts for this device on this forum.
2) There are people who do not even know how to operate a computer, much less how to program an ECU who order this thing, then get frustrated that it does not automagically work for them, then give me shit on Whatsapp blaming me for their own ineptitude. I can do without that!
3) There are not many BS4 Himas left who's owners either don't already have the red box (and its working fine!) or went for one of the other ECU solutions.
4) This product is hands down the most often cited object where ppl who bought it "elsewhere" want service for it from us. No can do muchachos!
I have taken the red box off the shop for various reasons.
1) @Sasa is not as present here as he was previously and except for him and maybe @Dool to an extend there are no experts for this device on this forum.
2) There are people who do not even know how to operate a computer, much less how to program an ECU who order this thing, then get frustrated that it does not automagically work for them, then give me shit on Whatsapp blaming me for their own ineptitude. I can do without that!
3) There are not many BS4 Himas left who's owners either don't already have the red box (and its working fine!) or went for one of the other ECU solutions.
4) This product is hands down the most often cited object where ppl who bought it "elsewhere" want service for it from us. No can do muchachos!
When working the Red box is the best system available BUT Dynojet has the top market position because they manufacture the Dyno machines.
Unfortunately Dyno operators are not willing to think "outside the box" in my experience.
Pity the importer of the Red Box never did Dyno runs to create decent maps but is still selling them regardless.
Unfortunately Dyno operators are not willing to think "outside the box" in my experience.
Pity the importer of the Red Box never did Dyno runs to create decent maps but is still selling them regardless.
